![]() Technically speaking, the Durso Standpipe is the plumbing assembly above the bulkhead, inside the overflow box. Instead of having the water crash down into the bottom of the overflow box, the Durso Standpipe allows for the water to rise and enter the drain through an attached elbow close to the surface as demonstrated in the diagram. ![]() The Durso is easy to install and does not take up much space making it popular for smaller aquariums with sump systems and those DIY folks who like to build stuff with their own two hands. The Durso Style drain reduces that noise level considerably when tuned correctly. The faster that water is moving, the louder it would get. ![]() In days past, noisy drains were problematic because the water would splash and gurgle as it passed through the pipes and down into the sump. The Durso Standpipe was created by a hobbyist, Richard Durso, and was born out of the desire to quietly and efficiently drain water from the display aquarium down into the sump. This is the most basic of the drains styles that only requires a single hole to be drilled into the tank. All of them can be used with either an internal or external overflow box. These are the three most common water drain technologies you will see used on an aquarium. Durso, Herbie, and Bean Animal refer to the drain plumbing itself inside the overflow box. While there are several different types of overflows using a variety of different drain styles, they all accomplish the same thing - drain water from your display down into your sump or filter.Īn overflow box can be internal or external meaning the box is either inside the aquarium or outside the aquarium. The overflow box itself consists of a weir and drainpipes to get water out of your tank and down into your sump. To say that I'm looking forward to this is an understatement.right now it seems like it's all in the planning phase.An overflow box is used to drain water from your display aquarium down into your sump or filtration system. Even better is, it's apparently held up (and rather strongly) by 2 bulkhead nuts, which means no siliconing fo a nice cleaner look. Saw someone's external box, made out of glass, attached by silicone, and got me googling boxes, and saw the reef savvy ghost overflow, and got to s 12 pieces of plastic, with 2 holes in 2 of the pieces, and 3 in another piece. Originally was going to do a quasi-coast to coast overflow, drill 3 holes, plumb it and go from there. Never done a build like this, so I'm in murky waters. IMO though if you have to ask if its even plausible you should just buy something pre-built. and some weld-on #4 (or 3) to weld it all together. (easily half the price of usplastics,etc. I don't know how strong bulkheads are, or which ones you plan to use, but unless the box is huge (and more specifically very wide making the lever bigger) it will probably be just fine.Ĭough. Some will be pulling the nut out (the lever aspect of the whole setup will pull on the top edge of the nut the most) but some will also be pushing into the tank wall (the bottom edge, which will most likely not go anywhere.). ![]() Most of the weight will not be on the nut, it will actually be on the bulkhead stem in shear. Thicker material than the internal wouldn't be bad either. Some internal bracing near the bulkheads would help, or having edges on the top side, or both. The internal box doesn't even need to be all that strong, but the external one does have to carry the plumbing (at least partially, it should be supported with clamps) and not tear off the wall (its a lever attached on a flat face). Especially without any teeth, which are bad anyway, nothing hard in the whole thing at all. It's fascinating that the only thing keeping that box attached are 2 bulkhead nuts.īuilding a couple of 5 sided boxes like that is very easy i think, its just simple cuts with some holes. ![]() The other question I have to ask is whether it would be cost effective to make it, or just wait and pay for it, though, I would change the hole design, from 2" to 1.5" bulkheads in the internal box, and 1" bulkheads in the external drain box. Basically, what you end up with is a big sandwich:īulkhead flange | gasket | internal overflow wall | gasket | tank wall | gasket | external overflow wall | bulkhead nutĭo you think it's plausible to make something similar? Instead of having teeth though, have say a 3/8" gap between water and a lid to provide a flat skimming area? Attaching an external box to the assembly as well would require yet another gasket, again between the tank and the box. But if there is a gasket between the box and the tank wall, then the seal remains solid. Acrylic 'bonding' is welding, and when done right its essentially one piece of acrylic, so definitely water tight. ![]()
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